In the Old Testament, Moses asks the King of Edom to pass through his land in what is now south-western Jordan. "We will stay on the main road until we leave your territory," he promised. But his request to travel along the King's Highway was denied. The modern road is far more welcoming – I was told "Welcome to Jordan" dozens of times, and was offered tea and invited for lunch and dinner by many locals I met along the road.
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