We stopped near the Gali Ali Bag waterfalls to admire a now-disused stretch of that original road: a half-tunnel carved into a sheer precipice. "My grandparents drove along here until it was diverted in the 1970s, terrified that the mountain would come down on them," said Hussein. "For a quarter-mile it was so narrow only one car could pass at a time. They'd honk their horns as a warning and pray for no oncoming traffic in case they all got stuck."
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